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Use these tips to avoid cracking and peeling when you paint over oil-based paint.

Oil-based paint is best applied using a natural bristle brush. These brushes are made from the hairs of hogs, oxen or other animals. Since the hair is naturally tapered at the end it has the quality required for the tip of the brush. A Basic Oil Painting Brush Kit, from left to right: bright bristle, filbert bristle, small and large flat bristles, an old bright bristle cut into with scissors (for making loose ragged brushstrokes), Winsor & Newton Sceptre Gold II round, assortment of Winsor & Newton Monarch brights, flats and filberts; and a fan bristle. In general, the best paint brush for oil-based paint will have natural bristles.

Photo: istockphoto.com

Q: I’d like to repaint my kitchen cabinets, which had been done with oil-based paint. Must I use oil-based paint for the project, or can I use up some water-based paint I have left over from another job?

Nylon and nylon/poly blend brushes can be used for oil or water based paints, but a polyester brush is best suited only for latex paints. Foam brushes can be used for oil or water based paints. They work best with thin products, like stain and polyurethane finishes. The Painter's Touch 32 oz. General purpose brush on paint offers great coverage. A rich, long-lasting color to help enhance your indoor or outdoor living space. Resists chipping and fading for durability. Apply to metal, wood, plaster, masonry and unglazed ceramic.

A: You’re correct to assume that it’s generally best to use more oil-based paint—in either an alkyd (made with a synthetic resin binder) or natural oil (such as linseed) formula—to refresh surfaces already coated with oil-based paint. Using water-based or acrylic paint when painting over oil-based paint is likely to cause peeling or chipping because those formulas don’t bond well with the naturally glossy surface of oil-based paint.

Yet it’s easy to understand why you’d want to go with water-based paint—it boasts lower volatile organic compound content (and less smelly fumes), faster drying time, and better resistance to discoloration from sunlight. Fortunately, with the proper approach, you can successfully use water-based paint over oil-based paint. Ahead, you’ll find pointers for using whatever paint products you like over oil-based paint.

Using Oil-Based Paint Over Oil-Based Paint

• Paint cured oil-based paint with either type of oil-based paint. If oil-based paint (either an alkyd or natural oil formula) has fully cured, it can be repainted with either alkyd- or natural oil-based paint. Oil-based paint is considered fully cured when it has hardened to the point that it can be scrubbed or washed without affecting the finish, which can take seven to 30 days.
• But avoid painting alkyd over uncured natural oil-based paint coats. If dealing with natural oil-based paint that hasn’t yet cured, only repaint with natural oil-based paint. If you were to apply alkyd paint, the natural oil-based coat below would continue to harden after the alkyd coat has cured, causing the top coat to crack. Alkyd paint that hasn’t yet cured, on the other hand, can safely be painted with either alkyd or natural oil-based paint without fear of cracking the top coat.

Photo: istockphoto.com

Using Water-Based Paint Over Oil-Based Paint

• De-gloss prior to putting water-based paint over oil-based paint. Because water-based paint doesn’t bond well with the glossy surface of oil-based paint, remove as much gloss from the surface as possible before repainting. Make a pass over the entire surface with fine-grit sandpaper (180- to 220-grit). You’re not seeking to remove all the paint, just sanding the surface until it’s level and no longer slick. Then wipe the surface down with a tack cloth to pick up any sanding dust.
• Deep clean with TSP before using water-based over oil-based paint. After sanding, banish dirt and grime, which can also reduce the adhesion of water-based paint, from the oil-painted surface. Donning gloves and safety glasses for splatter protection, dilute a quarter-cup of trisodium phosphate (TSP) in one gallon of warm water in a large bucket. Saturate a soft sponge in the TSP solution, lightly wring it out, and wipe down the sanded surface to pick up dirt, debris, and grime. Make a second pass over the cleaned surface with a sponge dampened in fresh water, then let the surface air-dry.
• Always prime when using water-based over oil-based paint. To prevent peeling and chipping in the drying and curing phase, use bonding primer—formulated to stick to glossy and other hard-to-paint surfaces—over the old oil-based coat for optimal paint adherence. Apply one to two coats of an oil-or water-based bonding primer and dry according to product directions. You’ll know the surface is adequately primed when the former paint color, stains, and other surface imperfections are no longer visible.
• Apply at least two coats of water-based paint over oil-based paint. Using a brush, roller, or paint sprayer, apply at least two coats of a high-quality water-based latex or acrylic paint (e.g., Glidden Premium, available at The Home Depot) over the primed surface, allowing ample drying according to the product directions between coats. If painting interior features (e.g., kitchen cabinets), choose a paint labeled for “interior” use. Paints labeled “interior/exterior” hold up better to rot and extreme weather, so are desirable for painting exterior features (e.g., the front door). If you’re painting molding or other trim, choose a complementary color and a semi-gloss sheen to accentuate the details on the trim.

It takes the right paint applicators to get the biggest payback from your investment in high-quality paint.

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For a consistent, long-lasting finish, you need to apply paint and coatings with high-quality application equipment. Better-quality brushes, rollers, and applicators tend to apply a thicker, more uniform, longer-lasting coat of paint than paint applied with cheap equipment. Top-quality equipment also speeds up and simplifies your work. The tools you require will depend on the type of project you are doing and the type of paint you are applying. Still, some simple guidelines hold true for any quality paint job.

Types of Brushes
There are two general categories of paintbrush: those made of natural-hair bristles and those made with synthetic materials, such as nylon or polyester. If you are working with alkyd or oil-based paints and coatings, you can use either natural bristle brushes or synthetic bristle brushes. However, high-quality natural bristle brushes work best when applying enamels or any topcoat.
When applying any type of latex coating, use only brushes with synthetic bristles. No matter how much water they are exposed to, they hold their shape and maintain proper stiffness. Top quality polyester brushes are well worth the initial cost. When properly cleaned and stored, they will continue to apply paint smoothly and uniformly for years to come.

Which Brushes Do You Need?
Whether you are doing interior or exterior painting, make sure that you match the size and shape of your brushes to the job at hand. Use large brushes to cover large surfaces and small brushes to cover small areas. To do most jobs properly, take the time to match the brush to the job.

Oil Based Paint Brush In Freezer

Match the right brush to the job to get the best paint application possible.

For large exterior surfaces, use a 4″-wide (100mm) flat brush with a thickness of 3/4″ to 1″ (25mm to 3mm).

To cut in at the corners of exterior and interior walls, use a 2″-wide (50mm) brush with tapered edges.

For exterior and interior woodwork and molding, use brushes between 1″ (30mm) and 2 1/2″ (60mm) wide.

For precise painting of exterior and interior window frames and trim, use angled sash brushes between 1″ (30mm) and 2 1/2″ (60mm) wide.

For interior walls and ceilings, use brushes between 3″ (75mm) and 4″ (100mm) wide.

Selecting a Quality Brush
How can you identify a high-quality paintbrush? Pay attention to the bristles. They should:

• have split ends, to create a finer, more even finish;
• have a definite flex at their tips, to enable them to spring back into shape;
• be shorter on the outside and longer in the center, to provide more control over where the paint is applied;
• measure at least half as long as the width of the brush. (For example, the bristles on a 2″ wide (50mm) brush should be 3″ (75mm) or more in length).

In addition, tug on the bristles before you purchase a brush. If more than one or two bristles can be pulled out, the brush is probably poorly constructed. Finally, make sure the brush feels comfortable in your hand. If a brush is well made and well cared for, it will last for years, so make sure you can use it comfortably.

Selecting Paint Rollers
Rollers are faster and easier to use than paintbrushes, especially when painting walls, ceilings, and other large, flat areas. They are also excellent for use on tough exterior surfaces like stucco and concrete.

However, rollers are difficult to work with in small or narrow spaces, so you’ll probably need to buy several different sizes of rollers, and one or more paintbrushes.

As with brushes, when you are applying latex paints, make sure you use roller covers made with a synthetic “nap,” or fiber surface. When applying alkyd or oil-based paints, you can use either synthetic or natural fiber covers.

An important consideration when selecting a roller cover is the length of the nap. In general, you should paint smooth surfaces with short-nap rollers and rough surfaces with long-nap rollers. When applying gloss or semi-gloss paints, short-nap covers tend to generate less foam during paint application. Recommended nap lengths for some common surfaces are as follows:

• wallboard, smooth plaster, wood, or metal: a short nap of 1/8″ to 1/4″ or 5mm
• light-textured stucco, poured concrete, and rough wood: a medium nap of 3/8″ to 3/4″ (15mm to 20mm)
• heavy-textured stucco, concrete block, and brick: a long nap of 3/4″ to 1″ (25mm to 30mm)

As with brushes, it is wise to purchase better-quality roller covers, even though they may cost more initially. High-quality roller covers apply paint more easily and are less likely to leave nap fibers on the painted surface.

While price is a good indicator of quality, you can also test the quality of a roller cover by squeezing it. A high-quality cover will quickly return to its original shape. Also be sure the roller cover has no obvious seams, since these tend to leave streaks when you apply the paint.

Standard roller widths are 7 1/2″ and 9″ (190mm and 240mm). The 9″ (240mm) size is suitable for most interior wall and ceiling jobs. Mini-rollers, about 3″ (75mm) wide, are convenient for painting trim and narrow areas.

Paint Pads
Paint pads can help you apply paint in hard-to-reach places, including those where neither brushes nor rollers will fit. While they are not recommended for applying paint to entire walls (since lap marks may result), paint pads are especially helpful when cutting in corners and painting areas where walls and ceilings meet.

Most paint pads are made of foam or mohair, and can be used to apply both latex and oil-based or alkyd paints. In most cases, the pads can be replaced when worn or damaged.

Best Oil Paint Brushes Brands

Paint Sprayers
For quick coverage of large surface areas, it is tough to beat power-spraying equipment. While sprayers may use more paint than other types of applicators, the ease and convenience they offer make them ideal for large jobs.

Conventional sprayers use compressed air as the pressurizing agent to deliver the paint. Airless sprayers pump the paint directly. Achieving proper coverage with conventional sprayers can be tricky business, but accomplished do-it-yourselfers can get good results with airless sprayers. Hand-carried electric airless sprayers are a good choice for interior painting; larger, wheel-around gasoline or electric units are better suited for extensive exterior work.

As with all power equipment, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for setup and operation. Most important, never point an airless sprayer at any person or pet, because the pressure of the spray is strong enough to inject paint into the bloodstream, which can be harmful or even fatal. Finally, when doing exterior painting, avoid working on windy days.